House Extensions, Kitchen Extensions, Loft Conversions, Garage Conversions

New Planning Permission rules

Planning Permission

This guidance reflects temporary increases to the size limits for single-storey rear extensions that must be completed by 30 May 2019, and the associated neighbour consultation scheme.

An extension or addition to your house is considered to be permitted development, not requiring an application for planning permission, subject to the following limits and conditions:

No more than half the area of land around the “original house”* would be covered by additions or other buildings.
No extension forward of the principal elevation or side elevation fronting a highway.
No extension to be higher than the highest part of the roof.
Single-storey rear extension must not extend beyond the rear wall of the original house* by more than three metres if an attached house or by four metres if a detached house.
In addition, outside Article 2(3) designated land* and Sites of Special Scientific Interest the limit is increased to 6m if an attached house and 8m if a detached house until 30 May 2019.
These increased limits (between 3m and 6m and between 4m and 8m respectively) are subject to the prior notification of the proposal to the Local Planning Authority and the implementation of a neighbour consultation scheme. If objections are received, the proposal might not be allowed.
Maximum height of a single-storey rear extension of four metres.
Extensions of more than one storey must not extend beyond the rear wall of the original house* by more than three metres.
Maximum eaves height of an extension within two metres of the boundary of three metres.
Maximum eaves and ridge height of extension no higher than existing house.
Side extensions to be single storey with maximum height of four metres and width no more than half that of the original house.
Two-storey extensions no closer than seven metres to rear boundary.
Roof pitch of extensions higher than one storey to match existing house.
Materials to be similar in appearance to the existing house.
No verandas, balconies or raised platforms.
Upper-floor, side-facing windows to be obscure-glazed; any opening to be 1.7m above the floor.
On designated land* no permitted development for rear extensions of more than one storey.
On designated land no cladding of the exterior.
On designated land no side extensions.

* The term “original house” means the house as it was first built or as it stood on 1 July 1948 (if it was built before that date). Although you may not have built an extension to the house, a previous owner may have done so.

* Designated land includes conservation areas, national parks and the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and World Heritage Sites.

Music recording studio

Building a Music recording studio in London

A very challenging building project, building a music studio in a London garden. Full Planning Permission was required, along with the services of an Architect, Structural Engineer, Sound Proofing Engineer, Air Conditioning & Ventilation Engineer, Sound Recording Engineer, etc

Site of the new build music studio
Site of the new build music studio

Foundation and Footings
Foundation and Footings

footing basement

Foundation footprint
Foundation footprint

steel reinforced concrete foundation and slab
Steel reinforced concrete foundation and slab

Hollow Dense Concrete Block
hollow blocks steel bar reinforced
Hollow Dense Concrete Block

Building the walls using Hollow Dense Concrete Block
Building the walls using Hollow Dense Concrete Block and a temporary roof to protect the bricklayers from the elements

Finished structure and walls
Finished structure and walls , exterior -front view

Interior view of the Recording Studio
Interior view of the Recording Studio

Rendering walls
Rendering walls

Roofing structure
Roofing structure

Reinforced and insulated flooring
Reinforced and insulated flooring

Tanking ,reinforced & insulated flooring
Tanking ,reinforced & insulated flooring

Kitchen extensions with skylights

kitchen extension open plan skylights
Kitchen extension open plan skylights

L shaped kitchen extension skylights roof lights
L shaped kitchen extension skylights roof lights

skylights kitchen extension
Skylights kitchen extension

electric roof windows
Electric roof windows

roof windows kitchen extension
Masive RSJs beam structural works

conservation area listed building electric windows
Conservation area listed building electric windows

roof lanter
Roof lantern

maisonette roof lights
Maisonette roof lights

roof window flat roof fibreglass
Velux roof window flat roof fibreglass

listed building roof lights
Grade 2 listed building roof lights

asphalt flat roof window
Asphalt flat roof window

Velux roof window
Velux roof window

roof lantern lead roofing
Roof lantern lead roofing

flat roof skylight
Flat roof skylight

extension roof light
Extension roof light


Experts can lay bricks or blocks, quickly and well. Amateurs can usually do one or the other, but not both.

bricklayer building a brickwall

It you are content to work slowly, and if necessary to knock down a piece of wall and start again (if you do it before the mortar is dry you can brush off the bricks and all you have wasted is a few shovelsful of mortar), there’s no reason why a householder shouldn’t be his own bricklayer. Once you’ve begun to master the technique a whole range of jobs becomes possible, from making dwarf walls for the base of a greenhouse or garden shed to building a garage or a house extension. Start with a garden wall – if the results are a little irregular, you can always claim that the rustic look was intended.

Most tools needed can be hired or bought: brick trowel, pointing trowel, bricklayer’s spirit level (a yard long with two bubbles so it can be used horizontally and vertically), club hammer, bolster chisel, bricklayer’s line, a rule.

bricklayer using spirit level & brick trowel

To cut a brick, chip a groove in it with hammer and bolster and tap unwanted side sharply. When a bricklayer does it the brick falls neatly in half; amateurs can use a lot of bricks before they master the knack (though a brick which hasn’t broken cleanly can still be used provided the face side is the right length). An easy way round this is to use a brick saw, a handsaw with hardened teeth set into the blade, and simply saw the bricks to size.

Wear working or gardening gloves; the mortar is hard on the hands. For a garden wall, mark out and dig a foundation twice the width of the wall; take out topsoil until you reach a firm base, the deeper the footing is, the better. Drive in pegs and level them, using a line or a straight-edged board and spirit level, so peg heads are about 7cm below ground level. Now fill trench with concrete (1 part cement, 6 of all-in ballast) to the top of the pegs and leave it to harden.

foundation garden wall

There are hundreds of different types of bricks, of different strengths, colours, finishes and prices; and the mortar in which they are set depends on the brick and the job it has to do.

extension brick cavity wall

Bonds are the patterns in which bricks are laid – English bond, stretcher , Flemish bond. Their purpose, apart from appearance, is to ensure that, for the sake of strength, no vertical joint comes directly above another. With foundations laid, stretch a line to mark where the face of the wall is to be, put a pile of bricks near each end.
bricks joints

If it is dry weather moisten them, the bricks should feel damp, dust-free mix mortar. Bricklaying is a hard job but also relaxing if you do it as hobby.