Double glazing company in London

Double glazing company in London

Double glazed windows, doors and conservatories in London

Secondary double glazing – the fitting of fixed hinged or sliding panes to the inside of existing windows – cuts heat loss and draughts dramatically.

There are two basic types of double glazing available to the homeowner
Primary double glazing involves the fitting of a sealed glazing unit – two linked panes of glass separated only by a hermetically sealed gap – into an existing or replacement window frame. These sealed units are factory-made, but can be installed by the do-it-yourselfer. Secondary double glazing is the term used to describe the installation of a completely independent second layer of glass (or other glazing material) some distance away from the existing single glazing, either to the inside of the window frame or to the window reveal surrounding it.

The fitting of this form of double glazing is well within the scope of the do-it-yourselfer and offers some advantages over primary double glazing. It is cheaper and quicker to install, since instead of having to order sealed units from a specialist manufacturing company you need only visit your local DIY shop and collect the necessary kit of component parts.

Sealed units have no draughtproofing abilities when installed in old badly-fitting opening windows, whereas secondary double glazing seals the entire frame, acting as both a thermal barrier and draught-proofer. It is worth noting, however, that primary double glazing is more effective as a thermal barrier and is also less obtrusive, being no more visible than a single pane of glass.

Types of secondary double glazing

An extremely wide variety of secondary double glazing systems exist to cater for virtually all situations (and pockets). Glass is by no means the only material used for glazing.

Other products used are clear polythene film in varying degrees of strength and clarity, or other transparent rigid plastics. Methods of framing the glazing also vary enormously, with just double-sided adhesive tape being used for some systems and rigid or flexible PVC or aluminium extrusions for others. Yet more choice comes with installation methods, where there are fixed, hinged or sliding systems (vertical or horizontal). Which type to choose When deciding on a secondary double glazing system, several factors should be considered carefully.

Cost naturally plays an important part. If you live in rented accommodation and don’t expect to stay for long, or simply want the cheapest form of double glazing for financial reasons, then the chances are that you will find clear polythene sheeting will serve your purposes. Attached to the existing window frame with double-sided adhesive tape, the polythene will prevent draughts very successfully, but in its most basic form it is not totally clear, is easily damaged, and seldom looks very tidy

This type of double glazing, although inexpensive and effective, does have one major disadvantage; once fixed, it is there for good – or at least until completely removed and discarded at the end of the winter. Double glazing of this nature is classed as fixed, but there is another ‘fixed’ variety which is less permanent and which can be temporarily removed and later replaced successfully. This type generally consists of a sheet of glass or rigid plastic sheet fitted into either a plastic or aluminium frame and then secured to the existing window frame using turnbuttons or shaped studs which hold it firmly in place. One drawback with fixed systems is that they do not allow for ventilation, and this can be very important. In situations where ventilation is necessary or you simply want easily openable windows, you will have to decide whether to purchase a double glazing system which incorporates sliding panels or hinged ones. And one factor which could help you make this choice is the sort of existing window you have.

Sliding double glazing systems need to have their outer tracks or channels secured to the sides, top and bottom of the window reveal. If your window has no reveal, or this is less than about 40mm (1 Vain) deep, then you will be unable to fit a sliding system unless you choose a type that is attached to the window frame itself. Hinged systems are fixed to the existing window’s surrounding wooden frame. In some cases, notably on metal windows, catches and stays project into the room past the frame and could prevent a hinged pane closing. The space between old and new panes can. however, be increased to allow for such projections by fitting an additional glazing bead is on the inside (which is becoming standard practice) the sealed unit can be replaced easily if damaged, and the glazing is secure.

No potential intruder can prise off the bead and remove the glass from the outside. Gaskets are incorporated in the glazing rebate and glazing bead to ensure a watertight and airtight seal. Condensation and safety Obviously, the fitting of sealed double glazing units to old window frames can only be of value if those old frames are in good condition and are not so badly fiting that they let in draughts. This should be checked very carefully beforehand and, if necessary, the frames should be replaced.

Condensation will never appear in the space between the two panes of glass as long as the hermetic seal remains undamaged. Consequently, care should be taken 4 If the old glazing sprigs are in good condition, re-use them; use new ones otherwise. Slide the hammer across the glass to prevent breakage. 8 Allow the putty to dry for 14 days before applying the first undercoat of paint. The final top coat should lap onto the glass by 3mm (Vain). during installation to ensure that the seal is not broken accidentally. Sealed units, may, however, develop condensation on the room side of the inner pane, although this is likely to be far less troublesome than on single glazed windows. The units should never be considered as a complete cure for a condensation problem.

Their value lies in their thermal insulation properties and the elimination of down-draughts. When ordering sealed double glazing units seek the advice of your local glass merchant.\He will be able to tell you what thickness df glass should be used and, even more important, the type of glass. New regulations; concerning glass for use in particular situations, such as in windows at low level and in doors, have come into force. They are intended to ensure your safety and so should be followed carefully, hence the need for expert guidance.

INSTALLING DRAUGHT EXCLUDERS

INSTALLING DRAUGHT EXCLUDERS

There’s nothing more unpleasant than sitting in a draught. Yet while many of us will complain about feeling shivery, it’s surprising how many people are prepared to put up with a cold stream of air blowing round their ankles. However, apart from making your home more comfortable to live in, draughtproofing could also save you a considerable amount of money which will more than pay for the cost of the work. The equation is simple: draughts = higher heating bills.

Tracking down the draught

How many times have you heard the expression: ‘There’s a. draught coming from somewhere’? Usually the reason is put down to an interior door that hasn’t been closed properly or which has a large gap under it. But in fact, in most instances this isn’t to blame. The draught has to come from somewhere, yet in most cases it’s coming through ill-fitting window casements, sashes and doors. Fortunately, however, there’s a tremendous range of products on the market to deal with virtually every situation and you should choose the type best suited to your needs. When it comes to installing these devices, carry out the work systematically and don’t just block up a few draughts and leave others. You’ve got to seal the outside of the house and when you’ve done that it won’t matter if you leave an interior door open – it won’t on its own cause a draught. However, don’t get over-enthusiastic and block up airbricks and ventilators as it’s important to maintain a circulating supply of air in the house – especially where fuel-burning appliances are in use.

Checking frame fit

If a window or door frame has been correctly installed there shouldn’t be a gap between the frame and the wall outside. If there is, say as a result of settlement or a poorly seasoned frame drying out, you may well get a draught through here (as well as penetrating damp). The answer is to use either flexible crack fillers or mastics, which are most easily applied with a caulking gun. Mastics don’t set, so they can cater for slight movements in the frame, and by running over the surface with a filling knife dipped in water or white spirit (turps) you can give them a neat, smooth finish.

Using foam strip

Foam strip is probably the most common method of draught-proofing and is easily available in a variety of forms and thicknesses. It’s also cheap, but not very longlasting. However, all you have to do when it wears out is to peel it off and stick on a new strip. Invariably some of the adhesive backing will be left behind when you do this, but it can be removed from the frame by rubbing with a cloth soaked in white spirit (turps). The strip has to be stuck on the rebate of the frame so that the door or window compresses it when closed and does not slide across its surface. For this reason on the hinge side of the frame you have to position the strip on the side of the rebate.

Weatherstrip

Being made of metal or plastic, these excluders are more substantial than foam strip. They work on a hinge principle – some are in the form of a flap, others have a V profile – which bridges the gap between the frame and the window or door. The strip can either be fitted to the frame (in the same places you would fit foam strip) or to the window or door itself. If you are installing it round a door then you can’t run it down the lock/handle edge: you’ll have to use the frame for this part. Generally speaking fixing to a door is more tricky and you may find it easier to take the door off the hinges first. Weatherstrip can be fitted to the bottom edge, but check that it doesn’t drag across a carpet as the door is opened and closed.

Rigid and flexible strip

In contrast to the previous excluders, these strips are fitted to the inner face of the door or window frame on the outside, not in the rebate. They consist of a plastic or aluminium holder with a flexible insert (either a PVC flap or tube) against which the door presses when it’s closed. For this reason it’s best to position the strip with the door shut so you can see that the flexible strip touches the door along its entire length. You can then open the door to make nailing easier.

Dealing with door bottoms

This is probably going to be where you get most draughts because for a door to operate without sticking there’s got to be a small gap between the bottom edge and the sill. But there are a number of devices specially designed to seal this gap when the door is closed. They range in sophistication from a simple flap fitted to the door to two-part sealers which are fitted to the door and sill.

Simple excluders

These consist of a brush or PVC strip set in a plastic or aluminium batten. They are usually sold in 900mm (36in) lengths but most can be cut down to size. To fit them you just have to nail or screw them to the bottom edge of the opening side of the door. Where a door has a high sill you’ll have to use a type that closes against the sill itself rather than rests on the floor.

Hinged excluders

One of the main problems with the simple flat excluders is that they drag across the floor when the door is opened. So to get round this you could install a hinged type instead. These also vary in complexity, but all of them have some form of springing device which lifts a flexible PVC strip clear of the sill when the door is opened. You’ll also have to fit a striking plate or a stud to the bottom of the door frame which will force the flap down over the gap when the door is closed. A further advantage of these excluders is that they automatically compensate for uneven sills and they can also deal with large gaps (see step-by-step photographs).

Threshold excluders

The types used for internal doors are simply screwed to the floor (see step-by-step photographs), but if the gap is too wide you’ll have to make some modifications. This may mean mounting the excluder on a strip of wood, fitting a replacement sill or lowering the door on its hinges. If the gap is too narrow for the excluder to be fitted you may have to trim a little off the bottom of the door. Use a plane rather than a saw, and chamfer the door so that it squeezes the flexible part of the excluder as it closes.

Threshold excluders for external doors are more complicated and consist either of a complete replacement containing a simple threshold excluder, or a face sealing/combination- type excluder. The replacement sill is no more difficult to fit than a simple threshold excluder, though the ends should be sealed with mastic or putty to stop water getting under them. In contrast, the second type needs considerable care when it’s being installed. Instructions vary, but it is important to ensure that where there are two parts they meet accurately, and that the weather is kept out of the seal, which means screwing a weatherbar along the bottom outside face of the door. Some types even require the door or frame to be shaped to fit the excluder.

Home Security,Burglary Prevention

Home Security,Burglary Prevention

London is a big city and burglaries do happens quite often. Some advice from the Metropolitan Police.

http://www.met.police.uk/crimeprevention/burglary.htm

Help us to help you prevent burglary

The Met is cracking down on burglary. We understand that it can be financially costly and emotionally devastating for victims and their families.

However, by taking just a few simple measures you can dramatically reduce the chances of it happening to you.

Most burglaries tend to be opportunistic rather than planned. So if your home does not look secure, seems unlived in, or provides unobserved access, it could be at risk. Understanding what burglars look for when choosing their target will help you identify weak spots in your home’s security.
Our 10 Top Tips:

Mark or etch your property with your postcode, house or flat number or the first three letters of your house name.
Register items with a serial number at: www.immobilise.com
Do not leave your car keys or ID documents near doors, letterbox or windows.
Always check who’s at the door and don’t open it if you feel anxious.
Close and lock all your doors and windows, even if you are only going out for a few minutes.
Keep your valuables out of sight.
Leave some lights on if it will be dark before you get home.
Install a visible burglar alarm.
Always keep sheds and outbuildings locked.
Cancel milk or other deliveries if you will be away for days or weeks at a time.

How does a burglar’s mind work?

Burglary, on the whole, is an opportunist crime. A burglar will select his target because it offers him the best opportunity to carry out his crime undetected and with the fewest number of obstacles in his way. A building that presents itself as unoccupied and insecure is far more likely to be targeted than one which is properly secured:

Side gates open
Accessible windows open
Ladders left out, allowing access to otherwise inaccessible windows
Garden tools available to force entry
Untrimmed hedges or high fences preventing natural surveillance

Each of these makes access to the building far simpler and is an indication to the prospective burglar that it’s worth a second look.

Residents of multi occupancy dwellings or flats should be mindful not to grant entry to people via an entry phone system, if they do not know them, and to be cautious of people seeking to ‘tailgate’ them into buildings.
The question is, are the occupants in?

Milk bottles or parcels on the doorstep
Newspapers and mail in the letter box
Unlit houses after dark
All windows shut in very hot weather

These are signs telling the burglar that he is unlikely to be disturbed in the course of his work. Naturally, circumstances may arise when such situations may be unavoidable. If we can take measures that tell the burglar that this building is too difficult or too risky a target, he will hopefully move on.
Letters
TO STOP A BURGLAR,
YOU NEED TO THINK LIKE ONE.
To a burglar, a stuffed letter box is a dead giveaway when you’re not at home. Ask a neighbour to remove your post while you are away.
Are you leaving a thief the key to your house?

Never leave a spare key concealed anywhere near the front door – burglars know all the hiding places
Prevent letterbox burglaries by storing keys away from the front door
Do not label your house keys in case you lose them and they fall into the wrong hands.

Remove temptation

Where possible, try to keep valuables out of sight from windows.

Make it look as though your house is occupied

Install timers which switch lights or radios on and off automatically.
Have a neighbour or friend pop round to clear your letter box or doorstep.
Encourage a neighbour to park on your drive.
If going out after dark, draw the curtains, leave some lights on and a radio playing.

Door
TO STOP A BURGLAR,
YOU NEED TO THINK LIKE ONE.
To a burglar, a dark doorway is an opportunity to hide. Fit a security light over your front door to deter burglars.
If you are away for extended periods.

Cancel the delivery of milk and newspapers
Disconnect the telephone answering machine, or re-word your greeting message to give the impression that you are only temporarily unable to answer.
Enlist the help of a neighbour, friend or relative to keep a regular eye on your property and keep the front door clear of deliveries.
If you are prepared to leave a key with a willing neighbour/relative, ask for curtains to be drawn and lights to be put on at night. If snow is on the ground a few footprints will make the house appear inhabited.
Check your insurance policy. Some insurance policies for contents don’t cover you if you are away for more than 30 days.
Set your burglar alarm.
If you do not have an alarm, consider investing a few pounds in a dummy alarm box. It may well deter the opportunist thief.

Remember: Remove the Opportunity – Prevent the Burglary

Handyman

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We have all the necessary skills and experience required to handle your project from start to finish. A great way to increase the value of your property, as well as to get more out of your home at the same time, is simply to consider adding a house extension to better take advantage of what your home has to offer by expanding its capabilities.

Handyman
Hanging pictures, paintings, mirrors, blinds, curtain racks, curtain poles & shelves Re-hanging cupboard doors Re-fixing replacing overhauling cabinet hinges Re-fixing loose and squeaking stair treads & floor boards Re-fixing banister rails Re-securing replacing staircase spindles Locks Fitting re-fitting carpets Installing threshold bars Constructing flat pack furniture Moving & re-positioning heavy furniture Storing furniture & boxes in loft space Clearing out unwanted belongings from spaces (basements, lofts, corridors, etc) Insulating loft space Gardening (cutting, chopping, removing tree branches, leaves, flowers, weed, etc) Securing loft hatches Easing and adjusting badly fitting jammed doors Fitting door handles, securing chains, spy holes, letter boxes and draft strips Easing and adjusting badly fitting jammed windows Fitting window latches, handles, stays, locks & draft strips Re-fixing parting beads and staff beads Re-puttying glazed panels Mounting television brackets, televisions, projector screens & speakers Window bars installation Bath screen installation Boxing in pipe-work Cable tidying Ceiling tiles installation Draught proofing Gun cabinet installation Toilet seat installation Smoke alarm C02 detector installation Wood flooring – sanding & installation Painting & Decorating Small & large painting decorating jobs Fill cracks in walls & ceilings Gap filling skirting boards, architraves, door frames & cornicing Patch plasterwork Patch plastering repairs Touch up paint works Patch sanding to floors, doors and handrails Patch up varnishing Applying blackboard paint Touching up floor paint Tiling Re-fitting loose tiles Taking out & replacing loose grout on wall & floor tiles Cleaning & reviving discoloured grout Re-sealing natural stone tiles surfaces Taking out old silicone sealant and re-applying around sanitary ware & tiling edges Tile drilling to fix soap dishes dispensers w.c roll holders shower brackets cabinets etc

Eco-friendly homes

You name it, this house has it: an air-source heat pump, a rainwater harvester, central-vacuuming system, triple-glazing and motion-sensitive lighting system. It also features underfloor heating and self-closing loos. The five bedrooms are arranged over three storeys. The property comes with about 11 acres of grounds and gardens
home

This is a scheme of two and three-bedroom lodges at the Gwel An Mor resort on the rugged north Cornish coast. These stunning properties are open-plan inside, and 44 per cent more energy efficient than government guidelines stipulate. There are air-to-water pumps which power the heating and air cooling in these eco-havens.
eco home

This four-bedroom house is equipped with today’s green essentials. It has a high insulation rating and underfloor wiring, as well as an eco-friendly heating system. Outside are 18 acres of grounds with a tennis court, stables and a single-storey two-bedroom cottage.
eco house

This three-bedroom house has been extensively insulated, so energy costs will be kept to a minimum. It comes with a three-level spiral staircase and limestone tiles with underfloor heating, as well as a games room. In the grounds are an alfresco dining area and a summer house.
ecological house