Hanging wallpaper the correct way is all important, since the final effect will be ruined if you make awkward turns in the wrong places or don’t hang the paper straight. And always remember to prepare the surface properly.
Putting up lining paper
If using lining paper, hang it on the wa1ls horizontally to avoid the joins coinciding with the vertical joins of the decorative paper. Cut the paper into lengths 25mm longer than the width of the wall to allow for 12mm turns onto the adjacent walls. Lay one end of the length on the pasting table, leaving the rest to hang to the floor, and paste this piece carefully. Fold over, with pasted sides together, about 380mm of paper. Then fold over 760mm and turn back the first folded piece to make pleats. Continue pasting and concertina pleating in this way until you near the end of the length, then paste this end and fold it over to meet the pleats. Start hanging the paper from a top corner of the wall, releasing one fold at a time and smoothing out with a roller or brush. Work right round and down the wall with subsequent lengths in the same way, butting adjoining strips together.
Marking the starting point
The usual starting point for vertical hanging is on a wall adjacent to a window so any overlap between adjoining lengths will not cast a shadow. When using paper with a large pattern, centre the pattern on the chimney-breast and on other main features of the room, if desirable, to give an overall balanced look when the room is finished. On plain wall You must establish a true vertical to align the edge of the first length. Measure out from the corner of the starting wall a distance l2mm less than the width of the paper (this extra 12mm will be turned onto the window wall). At this point suspend a plumb bob from a small nail as high up the wall as possible. Mark the wall at several points behind the line and use a straightedge and pencil to join the points together.
Measure from the pattern centre to the left-hand edge of the paper. Measure this distance to the left of the centre line on the chimney-breast, suspend a plumb bob at this point, mark the vertical line and hang the first length to one side of it. Hang the second length to the other side of the 1ine, butting up to the first length. Alternatively, you can hang two widths so the motifs at the edges to be butted match up in adjacent lengths at the centre of your chimney breast or projection. Suspend a plumb bob at the centre of the projection, mark the line as before and hang the first length against this. Hang the second length on the other side of the centre line.
Cutting lengths and pasting
Cut the paper into lengths, each about 200mm longer than the height of the wall to allow for trimming later. If the paper has a set or drop pattern, match the lengths on the pasting table; remember to work from two or even three rol1s at once to reduce wastage. As you cut the lengths number them on the back so you can tell at a glance the order in which to hang them. Also indicate which end is to be hung at the top of the wall to avoid hanging the paper upside down. Lay the lengths, decorative side down, on the pasting table. Line up the end and far edge of the first sheet of paper with the end and far edge of the table. allowing it to overhang by 6mm. At the other end let the rest of the paper fall onto the floor.
Imagine the width of the paper is divided into three strips; paste the centre strip, then paste the section farthest away from you, working towards the edge (never work from the edges towards the centre as the paste will seep under the paper and spoil the decorative face). Pull the paper towards you so the near edge overhangs the table by about 6mm and paste this final strip, remembering to work from the centre towards the edge. Fold over the pasted end to the centre of the length, pull the unpasted paper onto the table and paste and fold as before. You do not need to leave the paste to soak in with thin papers, which you can hang immediately. Heavier papers have to soak for about ten minutes. To save time lay the pasted length (with the ends still folded back onto the centre) on a clean surface and paste the next length. It is a good idea to write the time of pasting on the back of each length to ensure each piece soaks for the same time.
Hanging the paper
Drape the pasted length over your arm, making sure you remember which end is to go at the top of the wall. Unfold the top hall of the length, keeping a firm hold on the lower half so it does not stretch. The positioning of the first length is critical. Align the edge of the paper with the line you marked on wall and position the top with the ceiling line, allowing a 75-100mm overlap at the top for trimming and folding. Fold this top edge overlap back onto the pasted side to prevent paste getting on the ceiling: if paste runs onto plaster or woodwork, remove at once with dampened sponge. Smooth down the centre of the paper with the hanging brush then work towards the edges to expel any air bubbles beneath the paper. Open out the lower half of the paper and repeat the procedure, folding the bottom edge overlap in the same way. Run the back of your scissors along the edges at the ceiling and skirting board to mark the trimming line. Peel back the paper and cut carefully along the crease before brushing the edges back into place and smoothing down. Hang subsequent lengths in the same way. matching the pattern (if any) at the top with the length already hung and position the edge of the new length as close as possible to the first. Slide the length along to form a neat butt join. After hanging each length go over the joins with a seam roller, unless the paper is embossed.