Plumbing Plumbers Central Heating


Combi-boilers are best for small flats, houses with maximum 2 bathrooms.

Highflow boilers are ideal for lager houses and properties, it can run 3 bathrooms and kitchen at the same time.

Megaflo – you can run a small hotel if you hot water tanks storage are large enough.

New bathroom drainage

New soil pipe and drain for an ensuite bathroom.
drains bathroom ensuite
Rodding eye soil pipe – any blockages can be easily cleared

drains for basin,wc,shower
The air vent outlet is fitted to prevent gas building up inside the soil pipe.

Exploding toilets – dangerous bathrooms

The bathroom as we know it is a Victorian invention, but at first, it could be a dangerous place. Besides horrible cases of scalding in the bath, there are even reports that there were incidents of lavatories spontaneously exploding. The reason this might have been possible was that flammable gases such as methane and hydrogen sulphide, emanating from human waste, built up in the sewers and, in early toilets, could leak back into the home, where they could theoretically be ignited by the naked flame of a candle. Changes to toilets – beginning in the late 18th Century and continuing in the Victorian era – sorted the problem of gas leaking.

London Plumbers

London based – Gas Safe Registered Plumbers, Fully Insured.Free Estimates, contact us by phone or by email.
Central Heating Boiler Installation

Central heating installation
Boiler installation
Unvented cylinders
Solar domestic hot water
Power flushing
Bathroom design and installation
Showers installed
Exterior drainage installation
Sinks unblocked

Replacing Sink and Basin Traps

Below every single plumbing fixture that drains into the house system is a trap containing a water seal, intended to prevent the return of foul gases from the sewer into the living areas of house or garden. The trap takes the form of a small U-shaped loop of pipe so formed that it is always filled with water. As new water drains from the fixture it displaces the water in the trap; part of the outgoing water then remains in the loop to replace the seal and maintain the barrier against air that would otherwise drift back up from the drainage pipes.

The primary purpose of a trap is to prevent contamination from the drains, but it also provides a convenient means of access to the pipes below the fixture. If you have to unblock a pipe you have an alternative to working through the plughole of the fixture. A trap is also a safety measure against the loss of small valuable objects that get accidentally washed down the plughole: a ring or a contact lens can often be found lying safely at the bottom of the U-bend, and can simply be tipped out once you have removed the trap. Traps in which the horizontal pipe leading from the U-bend gives a resemblance to the letter P are called P-traps. You will also often find S-traps, with a vertical pipe after the bend, and self-contained bottle traps (opposite page, below) whose neat appearance makes them particularly popular for use under wash basins or anywhere else where they are openly visible. Traps may be made in any of the normal plumbing materials, such as copper, steel, chrome or plastic. It is usually desirable that the material of the trap and the following waste pipe should match, but a new plastic trap can be satisfactorily fixed to an existing pipe of any material. The same technique is used for attaching traps of both matching and dissimilar materials.

Unclogging the Main Drains

When the water draining from one appliance wells up through the waste of another, the trouble probably lies in the main drain or its branches, which channel waste into the sewer. Since waste flows downwards, any blockage in the main drain or soil stack will stop up all the appliances above that point. In addition, anything that blocks the vent, which keeps air flowing through the system, will cause waste to drain away sluggishly, and there may be an unpleasant odour in the house. Before starting work, plot the course of the pipes in your waste system to help you pinpoint the blockage. You may find it helpful to sketch the layout on paper. Once you have decided where the obstruction might be, try a rubber plunger of the appliance closest to the trouble spot this can be effective even if the blockage is in the main soil and waste stack. If that fails, try cleaning out the stack with a cleaning rod or drain auger. Work from the appliance closest to the blockage.

To make the job easier, hire an electric auger up to 30 metres long from a tool-hire firm. Even an electric auger, however, will not work effectively if it has to go round too many bends. Always take the straightest possible route to the problem area. In the main stack that usually means working through the nearest inspection chamber or, more commonly, through a cleaning eye. A blockage below ground level, in the drain to the sewer, will have to be reached through a gully or inspection chamber.
In most plumbing repairs speed is essential, but unclogging the main drains calls instead for patience. Avoid precipitate action. The column of water trapped by the blockage may extend above the point where your cleaning eye is located, and it will gush out as soon as you open the eye. Wait for at least two or three hours after you have spotted the trouble before starting work, to allow as much as possible of the waste to seep past the blockage. Even then, you will need mops, buckets, rags and old newspapers to soak up any overflow. When you have finished clearing up, dispose of the rags and newspapers in sealed plastic bags and disinfect the site.

Locating the blockage
The first step in finding blockages is to check which fittings are draining normally; clogs in a soil and waste stack will always be below the level of the lowest blocked fitting and above the highest working fitting. In the plumbing system above, a blockage near the cleaning eye would block both the basin and the W.C., but not the bath. Should all the first-floor fittings be blocked, the problem must lie below the point where the bath waste feeds into the stack. In either case, the blockage should be cleared through the cleaning eye. If the sink on the ground floor is blocked, the fault must lie in the gully or the pipes leading to or from it. Try pouring water through the gully. If it passes freely through, the blockage is in the sink waste, which should be cleared through the sink trap; if not, clear the gully with a hose or auger. When all the appliances are blocked, the blockage must be in the drain to the public sewer, and should be tackled through the inspection chamber. Often the first sign of such an obstruction will be flooding from the gully, the lowest drain outlet in the system.

Unblocking drains and waste pipes

Working through the cleaning eye
If the trap under the clogged fixture has a cleaning eye, place a bucket under the trap and remove the threaded eye. After water has emptied from the trap and sin-k, straighten a wire coat hanger, form a small hook in one end, and probe through the trap. If the obstruction is near the opening, you should be able to dislodge it or hook it and draw it out. If not, feed a drain auger first up to the sink opening, then through the back half of the trap. If the blockage is not in the trap, try cleaning beyond the trap .

Removing a trap for cleaning
If the trap has no cleaning eye, shut off the water, unscrew the nut that attaches the trap to the threaded sink waste and detach the trap. Clean it with detergent and a bottle brush. To clear a modern bottle trap, unscrew the bottom half of the trap and probe the fixture . Reassemble the trap and turn on the water.

Augering branch drains
With the trap removed, wind a drain auger into the exposed end of the pipe. The blockage may be in the vertical pipe behind the fixture or in the near-horizontal pipe that connects with the main stack serving the entire house. If the auger goes freely through the waste pipe until it enters the stack, the blockage is probably in a section of the main drainage system, in which case you should clear it. If your waste pipe is made of push-fit plastic sections and is readily accessible, you may be able to dismantle it section by section until you reach the blockage, emptying out any water the pipes contain into a bucket as you go.

Unblocking Bath Wastes
The techniques for unblocking bath wastes are the same as for sinks and basins, except that the trap on a bath-hidden away at floor level behind the side panels of the bath-is usually more difficult to reach than that of a sink or basin. As with sinks and basins, a rubber plunger is the first tool to try. Block up the bath’s overflow opening with a damp rag so that the force from the plunger is not dissipated upwards. Use the plunger as a plug and make sure that there is enough water in the bath to cover the cup completely, then pump the plunger vigorously up and down. If the blockage does not disperse immediately, persevere: the force transmitted from the rubber cup through the water in the pipe may be pushing the obstruction along the waste pipe by degrees, until it breaks down or is freed by being ejected into a main pipe of larger diameter.

If the plunger does not succeed, try a drain auger. The blockage is most likely to be in the trap and it should be possible to remove it by working with the auger through the plughole. If, however, the blockage lies in a branch drain beyond the trap, it may be necessary to remove the trap. To gain access to the trap, you will have to remove a side or end panel from the bath. Bath panels come in many variations, but they generally conform to one of two basic types. The panel may be made of hardboard or plywood, and held in place near the edges, usually with domed mirror screws, In that case, unscrew and remove the domed tops of the screws by twisting them anticlockwise; underneath you will find the slotted heads of the screws that fix the panel to the bath. These are simply removed with a screwdriver. Other baths have moulded plastic panels which are flexible enough to be slotted into place under the lip of the bath. Remove such panels by bending them until you can slip the top edge out from its mooring. Then unscrew or dismantle the trap.

Unblocking W.C.s – toilets

Using o plunger
If a blocked W.C. pan is full to the rim, empty out half its contents. If the pan is empty, add water up to the normal level. Fit a large rubber plunger over the wide opening near the bottom of the pan. Pump 10 times with short, rapid strokes, then lift the plunger quickly. If the blockage has been cleared, you will hear a gurgling sound and the water in the pan will return to its normal level. If the water level sinks slightly but not down to the normal level, the blockage has been only partially removed, in which case you will need to pump again. When you think you have completely cleared the obstruction, test by flushing the W.C.

Using a W.C. auger
Add or remove water as necessary. The W.C. auger-designed specially for clearing W.C.s-has a cranking handle attached to a long sleeve, shaped to guide the auger directly into the trap. Hold the sleeve firmly near the top and wind the hook slowly clockwise into the trap until you reach the obstruction.

Rats in the toilet

From time to time , we get jobs like these. We are the last on the plumbing and pest control list and the most effective solution. Most people will try the cheapest solutions before they actually deal with real problem. You have rats in your home. In London , most plumbers can run a pipe for you, unblock a drain, etc – but not many actually understand how the drains work.
There is no easy way to say it, a rat and a mouse is attracted by human feces. If the soil under the building or around the building has been contaminated, the pests will consider your toilet, WC and building itself – an attractive place.

Human feces also known as stool, is the waste product of the human digestive system including bacteria.A very unpleasant job and also dangerous from a health point of view. Most people go for the cheapest option, installing rat traps, poison, etc. The cost of getting rid of bad smell and rats, can be reduced if we are the first on the job. Customers are spending thousands of pounds sometimes, before they call us.
Our plumbers and builders are not delicate people, we keep it simple. We make sure that we get rid of the smell and not even an insect can crawl up from the ground up.

unblocking drains feces removal
Removing feces contaminated soil

Using CCTV camera , rat traps,etc- the drain is still there, the problem will not go away, sealing the smell will be just a temporary solution.

When you have a drain problem, don’t just cover it up and look for easy solutions, it won’t go away.

Boxing in pipes

Plumbing means pipes, which can be unsightly if left exposed. Boxing them in will tidy up the look of the home. Whichever method you choose to conceal pipes, the first task is to strip the wall around the pipes so a supporting frame can be securely fixed. Make sure the pipes are in good condition and that the joints are well made. Check compression joints for tightness and, if there is any corrosion, remake the joints. Before boxing in make sure the pipes are fixed securely to the wall with pipe clips.

boxed in pipes & boiler
Boiler boxed in – cupboard

Where pipes come through the floor from a room below, seal the gap between the pipes and the floor with a shaped piece of 12 or l8mm chipboard to reduce the risk of fire spreading. Pipes on an outside wall should be insulated with a glass fibre blanket or with shaped foam secured with tape.

Making the box
Using plugs and screws fix 25 x 19mm timber battens vertically to the wall on each side of the pipes; check with a plumb line to ensure accurate positioning. Where the pipes are on an open wall, glue and screw or pin 12mm thick plywood or chipboard to the sides of the battens (the width of the timber side pieces depends on the depth required for the box). Where the pipes are in a corner you will need only one side piece and, if the pipes protrude less than 50mm from the wall, you may not need side pieces at all. In this case use 25mm battens, wide enough to clear the pipes, as side pieces.

Front panel
Cover the pipes with 3 or 5mm hardboard or plywood; if you want a more solid panel, use 12mm chipboard. Don’t glue the front panels in place because you must have access to the pipes in case of leaks. Fix hardboard or plywood with panel or hardboard pins and secure chipboard with countersunk screws. You will achieve a better finish if you cut your front panel slightly oversize and trim it back with a plane once it is fixed in position. Use a cellulose filler to fill any cracks and countersunk screw heads, except where these provide access. Give the box a coat of primer before decorating as required. When decorating, make sure you do not cover the join or your decorations will be spoiled when you need to remove the box.

Stopcocks and draincocks
Where there are stopcocks or draincocks in the pipe runs you must cut holes in the front panel to allow the handles to protrude, unless you fit access covers in the boxes. Alternatively construct a box which can be easily removed. Make up a hardboard box of the required size, using 25mm square battens at the front corners to give it form. On the inside face of the front panel glue 19mm wide battens at approximately 1m intervals and secure them with panel pins hammered through from the outside. Screw Terry clips of the required size, according to the pipe dimensions, to the battens; these will snap over the pipes and secure the panel.

Disappearing pipes
Where pipes disappear into a wall, the bottom or top (as applicable) of the box can be finished at an angle. Cut the side pieces and/or battens at 45 degrees, pin a small piece of hardboard or plywood to the sloping part and plane across the front panel until it forms a neat joint.

Alcove pipes
When you wish to conceal pipes in an alcove it is often best to cover the entire wall area with a full width panel; this robs you of little space and does not affect the look of the wall line. Fix timber battens on each side of the pipes, as previously explained. Plug and screw a piece of batten on each side of the alcove level with the front of the battens on each side of the pipes. Use 9mm ($in) chipboard, fixed with countersunk screws, to conceal the pipes and to provide easy access and nail 9.5mm plasterboard either side of the chipboard.
You can use the same method, but with a stronger framework, to conceal cisterns and soil and water pipes.

Skirting board pipes

Screw a batten to the floor with its face just in front of the maximum projection of the pipes. Glue and screw a 12mm facing board to the batten, then glue and nail scotia moulding to the top of the facing board. Finally glue and pin a strip of hardboard or plywood between the moulding and the top of the skirting. If you want a round edge finish, use a facing board of the same height as the skirting; glue and pin a length of 12mm board to the top of the facing board and skirting and round the front edge with a plane. Although a certain amount of time, effort and money is involved, you will be surprised how much neater rooms will look when the pipes have been boxed in. You can paint or wallpaper the covering.

Dealing with frozen pipes

winter london snow
If, in spite of your precautions, a freeze-up does occur, it is essential to deal with it immediately. If there is any delay the plug of ice will spread along the pipe and increase the risk of damage. You can gauge the position of the freeze-up from the situation of the plumbing fittings which have stopped working. If, for instance, water is not flowing into the main cold water storage cistern but is running from the cold tap over the kitchen sink. the plug of ice must be in the rising main between the branch to the kitchen sink and the cistern. Strip off the lagging from the affected pipe and apply heat – either with cloths soaked in hot water and wrung dry or a filled hot water bottle. If a pipe is inaccessible direct a jet of warm air towards it from a hair dryer or the outlet of a vacuum cleaner. Fortunately copper tubing conducts very well and a small plug of ice can often be melted by applying heat to the pipe about a metre from the actual location of the ice.

Burst pipe
If the freeze-up results in a burst pipe the first indication will probably be water dripping through a ceiling, since pipes in the loft are most likely to burst; wherever the leak, immediate action is vital. Turn off the main stopcock and open up every tap in the house. This will drain the cistern and pipes and reduce the damage. When the system is completely drained,find the position of the leak.

Damaged copper piping
If you have copper piping, you will probably find a compression or soldered capillary joint will have been forced open by the expansion of ice. All you need to do in this case is fit a new joint. Copper piping does sometimes split under pressure. If that happens, you will have to cut out the defective length and insert a new length. An easy way of doing this is to insert a repair coupling. Cut out the damaged section of pipe with a fine tooth hacksaw leaving a gap of not more than 89mm between the pipe ends. Remove the burr from the tube ends with a small file. One end of the coupling has a tube stop, the other is free to slide along the pipe. Slacken the nuts of the coupling, spring one end of the pipe out just enough to allow you to slide the repair coupling over it. Line it up with the other pipe end and push the coupling on to it until the tube stop is reached. Unscrew the nuts and slide them and the copper jointing rings along the pipe. Apply jointing compound or gloss paint into the bevels of the fitting and around the leading edge of the jointing rings. Tighten the nuts with a spanner so the tube is lightly gripped; make another turn, or a turn and a quarter, making sure you do not overtighten.

Burst lead pipe
The orthodox and approved of copper pipe and fitting method of repairing a burst lead pipe is to cut out repair coupling. Making the affected length and replace it with a new length temporary repair to lead pipe of pipe; this job is best left to an expert plumber. You can,however,make a temporary repair with one of the epoxy resin repair kits available. Dry the affected length of pipe thoroughly and knock the edges of the split together with a hammer. Rub down with abrasive paper. Make up the resin filler according to the manufacturer’s instructions and apply it round the pipe to cover the split and the surrounding area. While the filler is still plastic, bind round it with a glass fibre bandage and ‘butter’ a further layer of resin filler over the bandage. When thoroughly set, rub down with abrasive paper to make an unobtrusive joint. You will be able to use the pipe again within a few hours.