THE TOOLS YOU’LL NEED
• hacksaw – a junior or larger – for cutting the lengths of pipe as you need them
• piece of paper – to help cut the pipe truly square
• tape measure
• file – for chamfering the pipe ends
• fine glasspaper – to abrade pipes and sockets for solvent-welding, and for cleaning up the ends of pipes where you have cut them
• pencil – for marking the cutting points and socket depths to find the working area of the pipe.
• solvent cement – for solvent-welding
• cleaning fluid – for cleaning the pipe ends and socket fittings when making solvent-weld joints • petroleum jelly – for lubrication when inserting the pipe into the socket in push-fit joint assemblies • tissues or rag for cleaning off excess solvent or petroleum jelly.
TYPES OF PIPE Unplasticised PVC (UPVC) is used for all waste pipe applications. Modified PVC (MPVC) has rubber or some other plasticiser added to make it more resistant to shock. Chlorinated PVC (CPVC or MUPVC) is used where very hot water discharge occurs, such as washing machine out-flows. Polypropylene (PP) is an alternative to PVC and can withstand hot water – but it expands a lot and is only suitable on short runs. Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) is stronger than UPVC and is used for waste connection mouldings.
• don’t smoke when you are solvent-weld jointing – solvent cement and solvent cement cleaner become poisonous when combined with cigarette smoke
• don’t inhale the fumes of solvent-weld cement or cleaning fluid – so avoid working in confined spaces • don’t get solvent-weld cement on any part of the pipe you’re not joining as this can later lead to cracking and weaknesses, especially inside sockets where the solvent cement can easily trickle down
• hold all solvent-weld joints for 15 seconds after joining and then leave them undisturbed for at least 5 minutes – if hot water is going to flow through the pipe don’t use it for 24 hours.