You have probably found however much storage space you have you always fill it. One way to keep up with growing plants, varying book heights, additional equipment and children”s changing interests is to install adjustable shelving: this is easy to put up and can just as easily be taken down if you move house. The shelves may be fitted onto brackets which slot into strips or uprights screwed to the wall, so you can move them about and fit additional or wider shelves; alternatively there are free-standing units with adjustable shelves. Before buying a shelving system decide where you want to put it” what items you need to store and how much flexibility you want; for example. some systems have a variety of special-purpose brackets so you can use a shelf as a desk or work top. Check the length of the brackets available, since some manufacturers do not make brackets for very wide shelves. Some systems have matching shelves you can buy or you can use shelves of your choice.
Wall shelving
Adjustable shelving systems are available in a variety of materials and finishes so you should be able to find one which will fit in with its surroundings. Hardened aluminium is commonly used for uprights and brackets and often for shelves as well: systems manufactured from this material are available in a silver satin finish or a matt anodized finish in gold,silver or black. Units are also made in painted steel. One system, which can be used for commercial or domestic purposes has matching steel shelves but can also be used with wood or glass shelves. For a living room you may want a wood unit and you can buy teak uprights and brackets with matching teak finished shelves.
Uprights
There are two main types of metal upright: those with slots into which the brackets are fitted and those with a continuous channel into which the shelves are slid and clicked or locked into place at the required position. Brackets of the slotted type can be moved at 25mm intervals: the sliding type is easier to adjust, but more care is needed in lining up the brackets to ensure the shelves are straight. It is easier to fix the sliding type uprights to the wall since there are no slots to be lined up: with the slotted type you need to line up the slots exactly or the shelves will not be level. Wood uprights have threaded holes into which the brackets are screwed. Some shelving systems have uprights which will hold hardboard panels, hessian or cork-covered boards or mirrors. For walls which are uneven,there are uprights which hold 3mm hardboard panels at a slight distance from the wall. Uprights are available in two or more lengths.
Wiring and lighting
One system has built-in facilities for an adjustable spotlight, which can be fitted at any height on the upright. Cables for lights of hi- fi equipment can be run inside the uprights and hidden with a cover strip. A switch is available which can be fitted on an upright connection to a lamp or other appliance.
Brackets
Wood brackets have rubber grip pads to hold the shelving, while the other type are screw-fixed or have a hooked edge which fits into a groove in the shell or a lipped end which holds the edge of the shelf. Some systems have special brackets to hold glass shelves.
Fixing wall shelving
When fixing the uprights make sure they are vertical and parallel to each other and with slotted supports ensure the slots are correctly lined up; check with a straight-edge and a spirit level. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for spacing between sup ports, which will be dictated by the load the shelves will carry, and check whether you need to buy .: screws; some manufacturers supply screws while others just specify the size of screw required. Draw a pencil line where the top fixing hole of each upright is to be placed, using a straight-edge and a spirit level to make sure it is horizontal. Make a cross on the line where the top screw of each support is to be placed, making sure the supports are the required distance apart. At each marked point drill a hole of the correct diameter for the wall fixings you are using and insert the fixings.
Fix each support at the top with a screw, leaving the screw slightly slack at this stage. Use a plumb line to check the first upright is vertical and mark the positions of the remaining screws. Swivel the support aside while you drill and plug the fixing holes; fix the bottom screw, followed by the intermediate ones, and finally tighten the top screw. Fix the remaining uprights in the same way, checking they are parallel to each other by using a batten cut to the exact distance between the supports. Place the brackets in position according to the manufacturer’s instructions, checking they are level by using a straight-edge and a spirit level. Place the shelves in position and screw them in place or cut grooves as required.