Panel pins will usually do an adequate job of fixing the glazing beads around heavier glass over a fairly large area (especially on curved beads, such as quarter round), but a more secure job can be achieved by using either screws, or cups and screws. The cups and screws are usually made of brass or white metal, and they look especially good fixed on natural or varnished hardwood. Another interesting visual effect can be achieved by using glazing beads which are slightly raised or proud of the edge of the glazing rebate.
Any rattling of the glass in the frames from wind or vibration can be avoided by using adhesive glazing felt which has been cut to length and set into the rebate before the glass is positioned. To fasten the glass with screws, or cups and screws, measure all the rebate sides as before, cut the beads to length, mitre and smooth them off as necessary. In the same positions as previously described for panel pins, drill clean holes through each bead. Once this has been done use the countersinking bit in the drill to countersink the holes to the size of the screw head. If the cups are used, omit the countersinking as the head of the screw is driven into and recessed inside the cup. Spread bedding putty as before. Now, with sufficient screws, or cups and screws, to hand, place the glass in position together with a side bead held firmly in the angle of the rebate.
Drill slightly, using a bradawl, into the rebate through each of the holes you have made in the bead. This will help to give the screws a good grip. Fasten the screws, or cups and screws into these holes and proceed to drill and fix the screws into the beads along each of the remaining sides, checking the position of glass as you work. If screws without cups are used, the head should be driven well down into the countersinking and filled as described for panel pins. Smooth and paint as before.