Baluster Repairs Replacement

Moving large pieces of furniture up and down stairs is a common cause of breakages to balusters.

YOU WILL NEED Pincers, means of damping (see box), sandpaper, hammer, 12 mm (y in) chisel, wedges, PVA wood adhesive. Possibly: fine round nails, hand or power drill, twist drill, nail punch, wood filler.

If the baluster is not completely broken you may be able to repair it in position using a rubber bandage and glue (see Two ways of clamping a baluster', right).

The baluster may be nailed in place at both top and bottom, so don't use force. Use the baluster to lever the nail out far enough to grip with pincers.

On a cut string (see 'What shape of staircase?', below) lever off the moulding at the side of the step with a chisel. This will release the bottom piece of the baluster.

What shape of staircase?

Balusters are fixed at the bottom to a length of wood which may be either a closed string or a cut string.

CLOSED STRING The string is a straight piece of timber with the top and bottom edges parallel, running diagonally across the profile of the stairs. The bottoms of the balusters are either slotted into sockets or simply nailed.

CUT STRING The string is cut in a zig-zag profile, that follows the shape of the stairs, with the bottoms of the balusters fitted in the horizontal sections. Pieces of wood moulding usually hold the balusters in place.

Two ways of clamping a baluster

If the baluster has broken diagonally, glue it and bind it with an old bicycle inner tube. Split the tube open to form one wide or two narrow bandages. Then bind a strip tightly around the baluster, tucking the end under one of the layers. It will apply considerable pressure to the join but won't bruise the wood.

If the baluster has broken straight across, you will need to apply pressure from each end while the glue sets. Tie a piece of strong string in a loose loop around the ends. To protect the ends of the baluster from damage insert pieces of card under the string. Insert a short piece of dowel into the loop and twist until it tightens the string, applying pressure.

If the baluster on a closed string has snapped, ease out the two pieces. Check that the pieces mate. If they don't, see 'Finding a replacement baluster'. If they do, apply plenty of PVA wood adhesive to both parts and press them firmly together. Wipe away surplus adhesive with a damp cloth.

REPLACING THE BALUSTER The following day, when the glue has set, smooth the baluster with sandpaper, and remove any old adhesive from the ends.

Deepen the socket on a closed string, using a hammer and chisel, until you can wiggle the baluster down far enough to get it back into the handrail.

Apply adhesive to the baluster and the staircase where they meet, then put the baluster in place. If necessary, wedge the lower end in place as described under 'Refitting loose balusters' (facing page).

FINDING A REPLACEMENT BALUSTER

If the baluster is damaged beyond repair, it may be possible to find a matching one in a yard that sells reclaimed materials from old houses. You can find them in Yellow Pages under 'Architectural Antiques' or 'Demolition'. Failing that, a local carpenter should be able to make a new one on a lathe, but he will need an old baluster as a pattern. afterwards.

Balusters

Refitting loose balusters

If a nail holding the baluster works loose, replace it with a longer, thicker nail. If the dry warmth of the central heating cause balusters to shrink, and become loose in their sockets, they will have to be wedged more firmly in place.

YOU WILL NEED Tenon saw, 12 mm (j in) chisel, scrap softwood, PVA wood adhesive, hammer, mallet, damp cloth, paint brush, varnish or paint. Possibly: wood stain.

To make wedges from softwood saw off pieces 6 mm (I in) thick, then pare them down with a chisel.

If the balusters are varnished, stain the wedges to match the surrounding wood, then coat them with PVA adhesive. Tap them in with the hammer round the loose baluster, ensuring that the baluster is kept central.

While the adhesive is still wet trim away any excess from the wedges with a chisel and mallet. Wipe off excess adhesive with a damp cloth. Stain any raw wooden edges. When the adhesive is dry, varnish or paint the repair.

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